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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.